8 Common 3D Printing Mistakes (And How to Avoid Them)
Key Takeaway
Whether you're new to 3D printing or just setting up a new machine, it’s easy to overlook the basics. I’ve learned the hard way—through failed prints, warped plates, and wasted filament.
Here are the top 8 mistakes I made, so you can avoid them.
1. Assuming AMS Can Print Flexible Filament
I thought I could feed TPU through the Automatic Material System (AMS). Turns out, AMS doesn’t play well with flexible filaments—too soft, too jam-prone.
Tip: If you’re printing with TPU or other flexible materials, skip the AMS and use a direct-drive setup.
2. Skipping Filament Drying
I underestimated how quickly filament absorbs moisture. Result: brittle layers, blobs, and stringing.
Fix: Use a filament dryer or low-temp oven. Even new spools benefit from a few hours of drying—especially PETG, TPU, and Nylon.
3. Trying to Remove Prints Too Soon
In a rush? I once forced a print off a warm build plate—scratched the surface and cracked the part.
Lesson: Wait until the plate cools. Most materials release naturally once the temperature drops.
4. Over-Bending the Build Plate
Spring steel build plates are flexible—but not indestructible. I bent mine too aggressively and damaged the coating.
Advice: Use gentle, even pressure when flexing the plate. Let the part pop off on its own.
5. Neglecting Glue or Surface Prep
On glass or PEI surfaces, a fresh layer of glue stick or adhesive ensures better adhesion and easier removal.
Reminder: Reapply every few prints, especially with warp-prone materials like ABS or PETG.
6. Letting a Bad Print Finish
I used to let flawed prints finish “just to see what happens.” In almost every case, it was a waste of time and filament.
Better approach: Pause or stop the print early, fix the root issue, and restart. It’s more efficient in the long run.
7. Ignoring the Trash Bin or Debris Trap
Some printers—especially those with AMS or purge systems—accumulate waste material. I once had a jam because the purge bucket overflowed.
Solution: Make it a habit to empty the bin and clean the hotend area regularly.
8. Not Checking the Model for Issues
I printed a beautiful part—until I realized half the geometry was broken. Non-manifold edges, flipped normals, and unsupported zones can wreck your results.
What to do: Inspect your model in the slicer. Use mesh repair tools (like Netfabb or built-in slicer checks) before you print.
3D printing is a journey of trial and error—but that doesn’t mean you have to repeat others' mistakes. By learning from these early missteps, you can save time, protect your equipment, and get better prints faster.
Have your own hard-learned lessons? Share them—let’s build smarter, together.
FAQ
we’ve gathered the most common questions here to make things simple. If you don’t find what you’re looking for, feel free to reach out. We’re always happy to help!
Why can’t AMS handle flexible filaments?
AMS uses a long Bowden tube system that works best with rigid filaments like PLA and PETG. Flexible filaments like TPU tend to compress, jam, or slip in the tube.
How do I know if my filament needs drying?
If you hear popping sounds, see excessive stringing, or experience layer separation, it likely has moisture. Use a filament dryer or airtight storage to prevent this.
Can I skip glue if I have a PEI sheet?
Some PEI surfaces work well without glue, but others benefit from light adhesive—especially with materials prone to warping. A thin glue stick layer also helps protect your surface.
Related posts
